Anchorage course
It was a lovely evening on 3rd May 2012 an Emma and Tony decided to run a course for Scouters of the 29th Dublin Blackrock Scout Group on anchoring climbs, it was not meant to give us a skill or qualification just a taster.
Any Mia, Kevin and I arrived in Dalkey Quarry at the agreed time. Emma and Tony had already set up Yorkshire Pudding (HS) for us to have climb for us to start off with. As mentioned in an earlier post it had been over 20 year since I was last on a rock face and was bricking it. Any way I got my fears and tackled it.
Before we started to climb Emma went over the basics of harnesses, helmets and how to tie on the rope. Of course being Scouter we all knew the single and double figure of eight, no seriously. So we rope on and Mia was the first to have a go and got to the top, well done. I was next and I had forgotten how cold the rock was and my finger tips soon felt numb. I persisted and to my delight got to the top with a few move that I didn’t even realised I knew never mind had forgotten. Kevin followed suit and made it to the top as well.
We then rigged Drinkers Delight (VD) and Drinkers Direct (VD) an I did the rigging on Delight, we did the single and threaded through to make a double. It was a bit disconcerting to tight off on gorse bushes but I relied on Emmas knowledge and did as she said. After these were ridged to climbed both. There was a nice interesting move at the foot of Delight where I had to hall myself up a section.
Here is a route description from Dalkey Quarry – Rock Climbing Guide – MCI – 2005
260. YORKSHIRE PUDDING ** HS 4b
The left hand of the two wide cracks provides an extremely enjoyable route. “Purists” will spurn the easier deviation out left near the top and finish direct up the corner. Well protected all the way.
20m
D. Mimes, J. Lynam. 20.1.1968.
Reclimbed by T Groves in 1988 after a ‘Tour de Force’ cleaning operation.
285. DRINKER’S DIRECT VD
A scrappy route. Start down and to the right of Slabs Wall below the finish of Drinker’s Delight. Climb straight over ledges and bulges to a large ledge. Finish as for Drinker’s Delight.
15m
I. Muihall, I. Leonard, P Lyons. 9.1971.
286. DRINKER’S DELIGHT VD
A much better route than its namesakes. Start below the right-hand of two leftward trending corners. Climb the corner to a ledge, and continue up the steeper groove above to another ledge, junction with Drinker’s Direct. Step left and finish up a short groove.
15m
P Kenny WR. Perrott. 1953.
and the images from the book: (click image for full size)